Binulo Restaurant at Clark Freeport Zone in Pampanga

Its color is that of a sad sunset refusing to let go of the gleaming sky. I stared as it slides down slowly out of the bamboo called Bulo. A golden breath of aroma leaped out as each freshwater prawn with glistening shell made its way from the bamboo reed to the immaculate pot. Dining at Binulo Restaurant located at Clark Freeport Zone Pampanga yields a beautiful kind of epiphany and echoes a tradition as beautiful as history.

When I cut through the head of the plump prawn and separate it from its body, the prawn’s delicate and creamy curdy fat invitingly stared at me. The flow of sour broth stained with a translucent shade of mandarin seeped underneath its shell to moisten its flabby flesh. There was a subtle resistance to the bite making the flesh bouncy with interplay of sourness from the broth and delicate sweetness that the prawn naturally has.

Faultless is a rather dangerous superlative I rarely use, if not at all, when it comes to describing a restaurant experience. Yet, all hands down to Binulo Restaurant, as there couldn’t be any other word that will aptly describe how our dinner went that night. Although Binulo also specializes in U.S. grilled steak, our host opted to go local that night. This led us to a feast of Kapampangan cuisine, tradition, history, and then some.

Pangat Na Ulang (Php250)

Binulo Restaurant got its name from the word Binulo which is a traditional process of cooking food inside a bamboo called Bulo. This tradition are said to be rooted from indigenous Aetas, which used to live near Pampanga, particularly Porac. As generations come and go, there are Kapampangans who wants to pass on this tradition to the next generation. The opening of Binulo Restaurant steeled this resolved to let this tradition live on.

The prelude to Kapampangan dinner started with deep fried pork rind called Pititian with Atsara. Served with green papaya relish and vinegar to dip the pork rinds into, this dish does not showcased the usual crispiness I was led to expect when eating pork rind. Rather, it was the kind of crispiness that melts in your mouth. Every chunk was laden with layers of crispy skin, fat, and even pork meat that was infinitely flavorful, but not overwhelming.

Pititian with Atchara (Php185)

Kapampangan dinner wouldn't be complete without the famous Sisig which they are known for. Binulo's Sisig is as good as classic can get. Made with chopped pork cheeks and ears, livers, and white onions. There was enough crunch in every chew, and a whole world of savory flavor in every spoonful. It screamed authenticity right through my palate, and experience I would not soon forget.

Sisig (Php195)

Another crunchy appetizer that was served was the Shrimp Okoy made with papaya, but it was the Paco (Fiddlehead Fern) Salad that captured my attention. A bowl full of colorful combination of fiddlehead fern tomatoes, boiled eggs, peanuts, and plump shrimps. Its dressing leaned on the creamy side of the spectrum unlike the usual vinegar based dressing. It was a bowl of refreshing treats that cleanse the palate.

Paco Salad (Fiddlehead FernSalad) Php105

Of the many dishes that was served, it was surprisingly the Binulong Nasi or rice cooked Binulo way that I found rather interesting. Last time I had eaten rice cooked inside a bamboo was way back my girl scout days and it tasted like, well, rice cooked by some girl scouts. But Binulo's version was way better and palatable because it hoarded flavor from the leaves where it was wrapped.

Binulong Nasi (105)

Pork Bulanglang sounds vaguely unfamiliar to me but upon looking and tasting it, I realized that it resembles that of the usual pork sinigang. It is basically pork and vegetable stewed in thick soup made sour by the use of guava fruit. The pork was so tender and the soup was unapologetically rich.

Pork Bulanglang (Php190)

Kalderetang Kambing (Stewed Goat) was another fare from Binulo that is worth raving about. Chunky goat meat stewed in spicy tomato sauce is one viand I find rather hard to cook because of the distinct smell and texture of the meat. Dare I say that Binulo's version of it was impeccable. The tenderness and the taste hinted of its full flavor that penetrated every shed of the meat.

Kalderetang Kambing (Php235)

The Crispy Pork Knuckles carried the same melt in your mouth goodness as that of the pork rind, but it's distinct taste and texture were still apparent. The crackling sound in every bite was a music to the ear and a delight to the palate.

Crispy Pork Knuckles (Php405)

Savory and peanut buttery thick sauce laden with vegetable and downright succulent U.S. oxtail is what Binulo's Kare-Kare is all about. It was the perfect combination of savory and sweet dish that does not overwhelms the palate, rather it caress. The concoction of the ingredients was perfectly blended and the use of high grade oxtail sends it a notch higher.

Ox-Tail Kare-Kare (Php395)

Binukadkad na Hito (Butterflied Catfish) is meant to be eaten with the combination of shreds of fish meat and the buro (fermented rice and salted fish) wrapped in lettuce leaves. This resembles the one I have tried at Bahay Ligaya Restaurant in Katipunan, but Binulo's buro that goes with the dish was way milder in taste and smell.

Binukadkad Na Hito (Php195)

The dishes that was served for the night was a feast of the sense. Different flavors and textures played from the table to our palate. It was a delightful gastronomical affair sealed with three different kinds of desserts that completed the night.

Turon Saging is Binulo Restaurant's take on the usual Banana Fritters, only the banana was wrapped with macapuno, ube, and langka. A scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side adds a special touch to the already palatable dessert.

Turon Saging (Php110)

The Bucayong Camote with Gatas Damulag was surprisingly palatable despite of its plainness. The caramelized sweet potato went perfectly well with the fresh carabao's milk. I found myself digging into the bottom of the bowl where the mashed sweet potato and the shallow pool of the fresh milk somehow thickens.

Bucayong Camote with Gatas Damulag (Php85) / Suman with Mango Ice Cream (Php110)

The Suman with Mango Ice Cream was a treat best enjoyed by mango lovers like myself. Sticky rice served with mango ice cream on the side topped with pureed mango and fresh ripe mango slices.

Dining at Binulo Restaurant doesn't just involve gut experience of delightful gastronomic treats, it also somehow includes a great recall of the past. I cannot remember when was the last time that I ate in a restaurant that reminds me of such rich history and tradition that we have.

Truth be told, eating is such a wonderful affair. Yet if we dig into more than what our eyes can see and our palate can taste, the true beauty lies on the discovery of how these food were prepared a long time ago. How it has nourished our people, how it has evolved, and how it has managed to live on.